07/09/2025 Written By: Carmen M. Lerga, BSc(Hon), MRSC, MSCS, MIFSCCS
Tired of chasing surfactant limits? Discover how solid particles at liquid interfaces deliver ultra-stable emulsions, boost claim substantiation and unlock greener formulation pathways, plus grab your seat at our three-part webinar series to see the science in action.
Pickering emulsions, cosmetic systems stabilized by fine solid particles instead of surfactants, are rewriting the playbook for skincare and haircare products. By forming an irreversible particle film at the oil–water interface, they deliver exceptional kinetic stability: minimal droplet coalescence, negligible desorption, and extended shelf life. This makes them ideal for sensitive-skin formulations, where traditional surfactant levels can trigger irritation. Tuning particle wettability through surface silanization, pH control, or electrolyte balance gives formulators unprecedented control over droplet size, texture, and sensory experience without the surfactant overload.
In the lab of Professor Bernie Binks, pioneers have expanded Pickering science beyond oil–water to oil–oil and even water–water systems, crafting powdered emulsions, liquid marbles, and layered droplets for one-pot cascade reactions.
“Formulation science is great fun,” says Binks, whose career spans over 400 peer-reviewed publications and numerous international awards, including the Overbeek Gold Medal. His work underscores how tailored particle selection and interface engineering can solve real-world challenges, from enhancing stability to enabling multi-phase delivery of active ingredients.
As sustainability demands intensify and eco-claims face regulatory scrutiny, Pickering emulsions offer a clean-label solution. By replacing high surfactant loads with biodegradable particles, clays, cellulose nanocrystals, or silica, they reduce overall ingredient burden and support circularity. Brands can meet consumer expectations for natural performance while ensuring compliance with EU cosmetics regulation. Moreover, the sensory versatility of Pickering systems empowers formulators to fine-tune viscosity, spreadability, and afterfeel, delivering products that perform as beautifully as they look.
At Olalla Consulting, we partner with R&D, regulatory, and marketing teams to integrate Pickering emulsions seamlessly into your development pipeline. From particle selection and surface modification strategies to stability testing and claim substantiation, we provide end-to-end support. Let us help you harness this emerging technology to differentiate your brand and future-proof your portfolio against evolving regulatory and consumer demands.
We’re thrilled to announce our free Autumn Webinar Series in collaboration with the Royal Society of Chemistry, designed to bridge cutting-edge colloid science, formulation strategy, and regulatory insight.
Sept 29: “Chemistry at Interfaces: From Pickering to Precision Systems” with Prof. Bernie Binks. Master the fundamentals of particle-interface design and learn how to transform emulsion stability.
Oct 13: “Trend to Truth: From Product Story to Substantiation” with Carmen M. Lerga. Discover claim-backed storytelling techniques to turn marketing trends into technical truths.
Nov 10: “Greenwashing vs Green Marketing: Navigating Eco-Claims” with Carmen M. Lerga, navigate the Green Claims Directive to craft genuine sustainability narratives. As seen in SCS formulate 2025.
Reserve your spot today to access live Q&A, practical tips, and exclusive, powerful downloadable information empowering formulators, marketers, and regulatory teams to elevate their impact.
Beauty’s next frontier fuses Soft Sensorial, Disruptive Expression and Pragmatic Performance into formula design. Soft Sensorial uses adaptogens and neurocosmetics like ashwagandha and bio-fermented extracts to deliver mood-boosting hydration rituals. Disruptive Expression leverages AI-generated pigments, bioluminescent highlights and haptic textures for experimental aesthetics. Pragmatic Performance features marine microalgae retinol alternatives, sweat-responsive polymers and upcycled proteins for multifunctional efficiency. Blend plant adaptogens, biotech pigments and bioactive polymers to create mindful, expressive and high-performing products. Harness these movements as your roadmap to sustainable, consumer-centric innovation.
As EU Regulation (EU) 2024/996 takes effect, retinol, alpha-arbutin and kojic acid thresholds drop drastically. Brands must reformulate, re-label and reposition by the looming deadlines: retinol to ≤ 0.5 % RE; α-arbutin to 2 % in facial creams/0.5 % in lotions; kojic acid ≤ 1 %. Start by auditing your SKU portfolio, confirming supplier specs, updating safety data sheets and implementing robust labelling. Blend alternatives like bakuchiol to offset reduced retinol levels, and craft comprehensive consumer messaging around safety improvements. Use this regulatory shift as an opportunity to innovate, showcasing compliance and efficacy as key brand differentiators.
When drafting product claims, start with the end in mind. Align your marketing language with substantiation pathways, whether sensory, instrumental, or consumer-tested. It saves time, builds trust, and keeps your messaging audit-ready.