Why They Matter and How to Formulate Them for Real Results

The beauty industry has entered a new era where skin health and microbiome science sit at the centre of product innovation. One of the most exciting developments in this space is the rise of prebiotic fibres in topical skincare. These functional ingredients support the skin microbiome, strengthen the barrier, and deliver visible improvements in hydration, clarity, and resilience. As consumer awareness grows, prebiotic fibres are becoming essential in next generation formulations.

Recent scientific work, including a detailed revie published in Antioxidants in 2025, confirms that prebiotic oligosaccharides such as galacto-oligosaccharides, fructo-oligosaccharides, gluco-oligosaccharides, chitosan oligosaccharides and agaro-oligosaccharides offer measurable benefits when applied to the skin. They help beneficial microorganisms thrive while reducing the activity of opportunistic pathogens. They also support antioxidant activity, calm inflammation, and improve the overall condition of the skin.

This article explores how prebiotic fibres work, why they are becoming central to modern skincare, and how to formulate with them effectively.

What Are Prebiotic Fibres in Skincare

Prebiotic fibres are non digestible oligosaccharides that act as selective nutrients for beneficial microorganisms living on the skin surface. Unlike probiotics, which introduce live bacteria, prebiotics feed the existing microbiome and help restore balance naturally.

The most widely used prebiotic fibres in skincare include:

• Galactooligosaccharides: Produced from lactose through enzymatic processes, thesefibres support commensal bacteria and improve hydration. Clinical studies showthat topical galacto oligosaccharides reduce transepidermal water loss andimprove skin smoothness.
• Fructo oligosaccharides: Derived from inulin or sucrose, these fibrespromote the growth of beneficial bacteria and help reduce the presence of acnerelated pathogens. They also support antioxidant activity and barrier repair.
• Gluco oligosaccharides: These fibres are produced from starch or cellulose and are known for their soothing and microbiome balancing properties. They are used in several commercial prebiotic complexes.
• Chitosan oligosaccharides: Derived from chitin, these fibres offer antimicrobial activity against acne causing bacteria and support wound healing and barrier recovery.
• Agaro and neoagaro oligosaccharides: Extracted from red algae, these fibres show antioxidant and brightening activity, making them valuable in radiance and anti ageing formulations.

These ingredients are now found in serums, moisturisers, cleansers, masks, and microbiome focused treatments from leading global brands.

How Prebiotic Fibres Benefit the Skin

• Support for beneficial skin bacteria: Prebiotic fibres selectively feed commensal bacteria such as Staphylococcus epidermidis. These bacteria produce metabolites that help maintain an optimal skin pH and strengthen the barrier.
• Reduction of pathogenic bacteria: Studies show that prebiotic fibres can inhibit the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Cutibacterium acnes. This makes them valuable in formulations for acne prone, sensitive, and atopic prone skin.
• Improved hydration and barrier function: Galacto-oligosaccharides and gluco-oligosaccharides increase water holding capacity and reduce transepidermal water loss. They also support the production of natural moisturising factors.
• Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity: Many prebiotic fibres reduce oxidative stress and calm inflammatory pathways. This contributes to smoother, more resilient skin.
• Brightening and anti ageing benefits: Agaro-oligosaccharides and human milk oligosaccharides inspired structures reduce melanin production and support autophagy driven brightening pathways.

How to Formulate with Prebiotic Fibres

Practical Guidance for High Performance Skincare

With three decades of experience in formulation and brand development, I have seen the impact prebiotic fibres can make when they are used correctly. They are powerful ingredients, but they require thoughtful formulation design to ensure stability, compatibility, and performance.

1. Choose the right concentration: Most prebiotic fibres perform well between 0.5 and 5 percent depending on the type.
2. Maintain a microbiome friendly pH: Aim for a final pH between 4.5 and 5.5 to support ingredient stability and microbiome balance.
3. Select compatible preservatives: Avoid aggressive preservatives that may counteract the microbiome supporting function. Mild organic acids, phenoxyethanol blends, and multifunctional humectants are preferred.
4. Consider solubility and processing: Most oligosaccharides are water soluble and should be added during the cool down phase to prevent degradation. Chitosan oligosaccharides may require gentle pH adjustment for full solubilisation.
5. Pair with synergistic ingredients: Prebiotic fibres work exceptionally well with these combinations, create a multi layered approach to barrier repair and microbiome support
6. Validate with microbiome testing: Modern consumers expect evidence based claims. Partner with microbiome testing laboratories to measure changes in microbial diversity, commensal abundance, and pathogen reduction.

• • • Galacto-oligosaccharides: 1 to 5 percent
    • Fructo-oligosaccharides: 0.5 to 3 percent
    • Gluco-oligosaccharides: 1 to 3 percent
    • Chitosan-oligosaccharides: 0.1 to 1 percent
    • Agaro-oligosaccharides: 0.05 to 0.5 percent

Higher concentrations may increase viscosity or create tackiness, so sensory optimisation is essential.

• • • Postbiotics such as fermented filtrates
    • Barrier lipids including ceramides
    • Humectants such as glycerin and sorbitol
    • Antioxidants including niacinamide and vitamin C derivatives

Why Prebiotic Fibres Are the Future of Skincare

The skin microbiome is now recognised as a central pillar of skin health. Prebiotic fibres offer a gentle, science backed way to support this ecosystem. They are suitable for sensitive skin, acne prone skin, ageing skin, and barrier compromised conditions.

As research continues to expand, prebiotic fibres will play an even greater role in personalised skincare, dermocosmetic treatments, and advanced barrier repair formulations.

Ready to Develop Your Own Prebiotic Skincare Formula

If you are exploring microbiome friendly skincare or want expert support in formulation, regulatory strategy, or product development, Olalla Consulting can help you bring your next innovation to life.

Discover how we support brands and founders at every stage of development:

Visit Olalla Consulting Ltd